![]() ‘You have to understand, some of them have been there for four generations,’ says Cepeda. The market’s existing traders took more convincing. ![]() We just thought: What would be cool for people? Being journalists helped us understand what people wanted.’ ‘We made no effort to achieve the usual goals of the real estate or mall business. ‘The main criticism – us not being from the industry – was actually our biggest strength,’ says Cepeda. Time Out Market, Miami Little-known local spots would sit alongside legendary chefs and restaurants, just like they do in the magazine Little-known local spots would sit alongside legendary chefs and restaurants, just like they do in the magazine. They created a rule: it didn’t matter how big or popular a restaurant was, it would only be invited to be part of the market if it had been awarded four or five (or, in one special case, six) stars by Time Out’s critics. What they did know, though, was Lisbon, and what was worth eating and drinking. Oh, except they’re journalists, right? A breed of people not historically known for gastronomic flair. That ‘project’ was to invite in the best of Lisbon’s food and drink scene, plus some cultural stuff, while ensuring the original traders could keep their places in the market. Time Out Market, Lisbon ‘We organised parties for like 5,000 people, and we thought: Why not do this in a more permanent way?’ ‘There was a lot of scepticism, because of its size. They had supermarkets and online.’ So Time Out put in a bid to take it on, as an experiment. ‘It still sold to small grocery shops and restaurants, but not directly to customers. ‘The market had lost its function,’ says Cepeda. A city icon, the market opened with massive civic pride in 1882. We organised parties for like 5,000 people, and we thought: Why not do this in a more permanent way?’ Looking around for a venue, they saw that there was a public tender for the Mercado da Ribeira. ![]() ‘We were a cult brand and people respected us. ‘Time Out was doing well in Lisbon,’ says João Cepeda, editor at the time. So what happened? Basically, Time Out did. But it’s not some kind of corporate repurposing: the old traders are still there the atmosphere is more lively, but it’s recognisably that of the old market. They come for some of the city’s best food and drink, live events, and to hang out. Today, the Mercado da Ribeira is not just Lisbon’s, but Portugal’s, number one attraction. It felt like it could only have one future. It had a tremendous atmosphere, but as a business, it looked like it was dying on its arse. A gallery ran round the building on the first floor. On the ground floor were some traders selling produce. In 2010, I was wandering around the Portuguese capital, Lisbon, when I found a huge nineteenth-century market.
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